France

Jean-Marc Roulot's Meursaults are magnificent interpretations of this benchmark appellation and among Burgundy's most distinctive whites.Domaine Roulot rose to prominence under Jean-Marc's pioneering father Guy in the mid-20th century. Through astute vineyard purchases and marriage to Geneviève Coche (scion of another of Burgundy's superstar vinous families), he became known for serious single-vineyard bottlings of Meursault's village lieux-dits.As a young man in the late 1970s, Jean-Marc left his family's domaine to train as an actor in Paris, but returned to Burgundy after his father's death. Since 1989, he has expanded the estate to 15ha, acquiring vines in Meursault's finest parcels and working with top growers in climats including lofty Chevalier-Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne for his micro-négociant project.All Jean-Marc's white wines are fermented and aged in oak barrels for 12 months. They then spend a further six months in steel tanks before bottling. In contrast to the rich, buttery style made famous in textbooks, Roulot's high-definition Meursaults combine mineral precision and mesmerising complexity.A tasting might begin with his Aligoté or Bourgogne Blanc – two of Burgundy's true bargains, offering a finesse that far exceeds their 'humble' appellations – before graduating to his village vineyards 'Meix Chavaux', 'Tillets', 'Luchets', 'Vireuils' and 'Tessons', each with their own combination of mineral and floral characters. Next up, the 1er Crus, bringing increased tension and the detail of their respective terroirs, be it the chalky precision of 'Poruzots', expressive florality of 'Charmes', length and finesse of 'Clos des Bouchères', intensity of 'Genevrières', or sensational texture and energy of 'Perrières'.From outside Meursault there is a benchmark Puligny 1er Cru 'Les Caillerets' and Auxey-Duresses, and two captivating Grand Crus – Corton-Charlemagne and Chevalier-Montrachet – all of which are not only quintessential examples of their appellations but distinct from the Meursault wines in the range, and affirm Jean-Marc's place among the Côte d'Or's most talented winemakers.

Roulot

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