France

In a remote corner of the Languedoc between the Mediterranean and the Cévennes foothills, Mas Coutelou is producing some of Southern France's most in-demand natural wines.A stalwart of La Dive Bouteille (the Loire Valley's celebrated annual natural wine fair) at which he pours bottles alongside the likes of Ganevat and Foillard, Jean-François ('Jeff') Coutelou is one of the founding fathers of the contemporary natural wine movement – although he's far too modest to admit it.His pioneering family, which has never applied chemicals to its land, were among the first French producers to be granted organic status on the initial day of certification in 1987. Jeff has taken things further by halving the estate to increase biodiversity and introducing biodynamics.Despite being a regular victim of sabotage from neighbours who view his low-intervention approach with disdain (see Jeff's appearance on the Netflix documentary Rotten) he soldiers on, tending an oasis of beautiful vineyards in the heart of bulk wine country.Mas Coutelou harnesses the vitality that such brilliant farming brings to its wines –&nbsp;joyful and utterly delicious, their immediacy makes them ideal session wines.

Mas Coutelou

Wines

In the wine trade? Sign up for regular Keeling Andrew wine offers