Beaujolais today is the source of some of the most joyful and accessible reds on the planet, having shaken off a reputation based on large commercial wineries’ notoriously synthetic 1970s wines. That’s due in large part to the influence of the late chemist/ negocient Jules Chauvet, a.k.a ‘the father of natural wine’, and a group of a vignerons led by Marcel Lapierre who were instrumental in a return to organic viticulture, as well as using no/low sulphur and natural yeasts, from 1978 on. This authentic, low-intervention philosophy has now percolated through generations of Bojo vignerons, inspiring young talents who have their own unique voice and energy to add. 

 

Justin Dutraive is one such winemaker, following in the footsteps of his sainted father, Jean-Louis, of Fleurie’s historic Domaine de la Grand’Cour. One of France’s most respected vignerons, Jean-Louis has passed the craft of world class winemaking on to his eldest son, who works alongside him at the family domaine having completed wine school and internships with Jean Foillard and Julie Balagny. Since 2015, Justin has produced a fabulous collection of his own cuvées, using organic and biodynamic practices and no fining or filtration.

 

Justin’s range includes the Beaujolais ‘Les Bulands’ and Beaujolais Villages ‘Les Tours’ from Saint-Étienne-la-Varenne, near Brouilly, plus two Fleurie lieux dits: ‘La Chapelle des Bois’ (whose vines were planted by his grandfather) and ‘La Madone’, arguably the leading vineyard in the appellation.  This steep, south-facing slope leads down from the 1866 Chapel of The Madonna, which sits majestically at the top, overlooking the vines. Justin’s wine from here combines a delicate, floral character from the pink granite soils, with good ripeness due to the aspect.